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Essay heading: Hydrodynamics of Surfing
 
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Issue: American History
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Date added: July 15, 1999
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No of pages / words: 3 / 743
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Locations such as Bali, Panama, and Ireland experience 2-3 meter tide fluctuations, whereas in Hawaii the difference between high and low tide is typically less than one meter. In order to know a surf break one must be sensitive to each of these factors. Each break is different, since the underwater topography of one place is unlike any other...
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At beach breaks, even the sandbanks change shape from week to week, so it takes commitment to get good waves (a skill dubbed "broceanography" by a few California surfers). That's why surfers have traditionally regarded surfing to be more of a lifestyle than a sport. Of course, you can sometimes be lucky and just turn up when the surf is pumping...
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