Riding Giants

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Written by:

Frank P


Date added:

August 27, 2014








No of pages / words:

2 / 455


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5307 times


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Then in 1948, a newspaper photograph of a 30-foot wave started a migration to Hawaii's big wave paradise. The American redwood boards were far too heavy for those waves so, designer George Downey built the first big wave surfboards using fiberglass and balsa wood. Among the living legends, a surfing expert, Greg Noll found himself immersed in the emerging sub culture...
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He was the kind of guy who had no fear. He once rode one of history’s biggest waves but unfortunately was never photographed. His motto was simple: “Screw the money, I’m having all the fun I can possibly have”. Surfing was a full-time occupation, with no room for bikini-clad Gidgets. For them surfing was not something you did, but something you became...
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