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Essay

Hydrodynamics of Surfing

Essay specific features

 

Issue:

American History

 

Written by:

Leeanne M

 

Date added:

March 21, 2012

 

Level:

University

 

Grade:

A

 

No of pages / words:

3 / 743

 

Was viewed:

3424 times

 

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Essay content:

The contours of the reef or sand bank influence wave shape in two respects. Firstly, the steepness of the incline is proportional to the resulting upthrust. When a swell passes over a sudden steep slope, the force of the upthrust causes the top of the wave to be thrown forward, forming a curtain of water which plunges to the wave trough below...
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Secondly, the alignment of the contours relative to the swell direction determines the duration of the breaking process. When a swell runs along a slope, it continues to peel for as long as that configuration lasts. When swell wraps into a bay or around an island, the breaking wave gradually diminishes in size, as the wave front becomes stretched by diffraction...
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