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Only A Surfer Knows The Feelin
Essay specific features
Written by:
Ophelia G
Date added:
December 4, 2013
Level:
University
Grade:
A
No of pages / words:
5 / 1273
Was viewed:
2359 times
Rating of current essay:
Essay content:
As soon as the sun makes its first peek over the horizon, he grabs a board, waxes it up, and jumps in the water. He then paddles his board through what many people call a journey: two hundred yards of dark cold water, blistering currents, and waves pushing back against each stroke made to push forward...
displayed 300 characters
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He makes this journey to get to a point right past where all the waves break, to a point called the line-up. It's here, where he waits for a wave that he catches back towards the shore, only to make the journey back through all the cold harsh currents and waves again. He catches a few waves, and then catches one all the way back to shore, where he showers, gets dressed and then goes off to work...
displayed 300 characters
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